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How to update the firmware to a new version?

Solution:
Open Anet website, find and click "Download", Select [Upgrade] in the drop-down menu of [Product], click in, find the software upgrade package for the corresponding product, download to the TF card, and insert the card into the machine interface to carry on off-line upgrade. https://www.anet3d.com/download/

What if the filament is not discharged from the machine?

Solution:
1. When the nozzle is heated to 250 degrees, click [feed and retreat-feed]. 2. Heat the nozzle to 150 degrees, click [Settings-Manual Control-"Z-Axis Move to the Highest Position"], replace the nozzle with the delivered tool, and be careful of burns. Remember to drain the remaining consumables in the Teflon tube and throat after unscrewing the nozzle.

When the machine returns materials, it cannot be returned. What should I do if it gets stuck in the pneumatic connector?

Solution:
1. If the consumables are not broken, please pull out slightly to assist in the return. 2. If the consumables have been broken, give up [Return], click [Feed] to send a new section of consumables, and extrude all the old consumables through the nozzle.

Where can I download the user manual or firmware of the ANET ET4 3D printer?

Solution:
1. Enter the ANET official website, click [Download] to enter, select [Open source] in the [Product] drop-down menu, click to enter, find the software upgrade package of the corresponding product, and download the latest firmware of the product. 2.https://www.anet3d.com/download/

When the machine is leveled, the nozzle moves to the left and can be leveled normally. When the nozzle moves to the right, it is found that the distance between the nozzle and the heating bed is very far or very close. If the spring is adjusted to the extreme position, it still cannot be leveled. How to solve?

Solution:
1. Turn off the power of the machine before leveling and tighten the four leveling springs. 2. Manually rotate the Z-axis motor coupling to move the nozzle to the top of the printing platform. Put a piece of A4 paper at the distance between the nozzle and the platform for quality inspection, and adjust the height of the nozzle against the platform. 3. Manually move the print head and the printing platform, check the distance between the nozzle and the platform, adjust the leveling nut to make the distance between the print head and the platform basically the same, and then perform [Auto Leveling], see the official website video for details. 4.https://www.anet3d.com/video/

After the machine is heated, the filament is discharged normally. However, when printing is executed for the first time, curling occurs on the platform. After printing a few layers, the filament will leave the platform. How to solve?

Solution:
1. Cancel the printing task and clear the residual model on the printing platform. 2. Click the [Preparation] button to enter [Manual Leveling], and perform software compensation in the manual leveling interface [-] [+], so that the distance between the nozzle and the platform is the distance of a piece of A4 paper. 3. After leveling is completed, it can be printed normally.

After booting, the screen is black. How to solve it?

Solution:
1. Plug in the power cord and see if the button is on. The light on indicates that there is current input. Disassemble the bottom case to see if the power supply is lit and the power connection is correct. Test the output voltage of the power supply, that is, the mainboard input voltage. If there is voltage, check whether the mainboard fuse is broken. If the fuse is not broken and the wiring of the display screen is correct, the motherboard is faulty; if the motherboard has no input voltage and the power output voltage is correct, the power supply is faulty. 2. Check whether the switch button of the machine is faulty, you can turn on the power switch, and use a multimeter to determine whether the pins on the power socket and the power line are on or off when the power is not connected. , If none of the above can be resolved, please contact the manufacturer.

How to solve the leveling failure of ET4, ET4pro and ET5, ET5pro?

Solution:
Enter the setting menu and click the home button. When the nozzle trolley is down, the sensor will be blocked to check whether the nozzle trolley has stopped. If it stops, the proximity sensor is normal. If it cannot be stopped, the proximity sensor is faulty. If the sensor fails, please contact the manufacturer for replacement.

How to solve the problem that the nozzle can not be heated after turning on heating?

Solution:
1. Check whether the heating tube terminal is burnt black. If it burns black, replace the heating tube 2. Check whether the terminal of the heating tube adapter board is damaged, whether the port is in poor contact (such as terminal port activity), if there is damage or poor contact, please contact the company for replacement. 3. If the terminal is not blackened, check whether the heating tube and thermistor are installed correctly, if not, please reinstall the heating tube or thermistor. 4. Measure the resistance of the heating tube, the normal resistance is about 14.4 ohms, if the resistance does not match, please replace the heating tube 5. If none of the above can be solved, please contact the manufacturer to replace the motherboard.

How to solve the problem when the hot bed is turned on and cannot be heated?

Solution:
1. Check whether the terminal wire pins of the heating bed are bent and in good contact. If they are bent, please insert the terminal wires of the heating bed firmly. If it cannot be solved, please contact the manufacturer to replace the heating bed board. 2. Measure whether the thermistor of the aluminum substrate of the hot bed is around 100K ohms, if not, please contact the manufacturer to replace the hot bed board

How to adjust the origin of the new ET4 proximity sensor?

Solution:
In the setting menu, click the home button, and the nozzle trolley will return to the origin and move downwards. When approaching the hot bed platform, click the pause button, then switch to the Z axis, select the appropriate unit (10mm, 1mm, 0.1mm), and press " -" button to move the nozzle so that there is only 1 paper distance between the nozzle and the glass of the hot bed. At this time, the light of the proximity sensor is just turned on.

What should I do if the X-axis direction of the printed model is offset?

Solution:
1: The synchronization wheel on the X-axis motor is loose, tighten the top wire on the lower synchronization wheel; 2: The belt has been used for a long time and becomes loose, which can be fastened with a tie

The consumables are almost used up, how to replace the consumables during printing?

Solution:
When printing filling or supporting, turn the knob counterclockwise on the main interface of the display to adjust the printing rate from 100% to 10%. After the printing speed drops, press and hold the spring clamp to quickly pull out the old consumables, and then prepare Load good new consumables into the printer (note that the consumables should be inserted in place). Then adjust the print rate to 30%-40% to see if it can print normally, and then adjust the print rate to 100% when everything is normal.

Steps for leveling while printing

Solution:
When you start printing, turn the knob counterclockwise to reduce the 100% (print rate) displayed on the screen to 30%, and the printing speed will decrease. When printing the bottom layer, you can gently touch the printed consumables with your hand to see if the platform is firmly attached. Not sticky means that the gap between the nozzle and the platform is too large. You need to adjust the platform here until the consumables near here can stick to the platform. Other places are similar.

ET series printer: switch auto pop up when pressed (can't be pressed down)

Solution:
Unplug the power, disassemble the bottom plate, and unplug the shorter red wire at the power switch then again, plug it back in. Then press several times, if it is normal, install the bottom plate. If this is not helping, please contact the manufacturer to replace the switch button.

The printed model is very rough with supports

Solution:
This is unavoidable. If you want a smooth surface, it is best not to add support as much as possible. The supported surface can be polished with fine sandpaper later to make it smoother, or it can be soaked in PLA polishing liquid, but PLA polishing liquid Poisonous, so water milling is recommended.

The LCD screen shows that the nozzle temperature is 300°/0/error, and it cannot start working after opening the file and waiting

Solution:
Check whether the heating pipe connection is normal Check whether the thermistor connection is normal 300° means the thermistor is not plugged in    If the heating tube cannot be heated and the temperature shows room temperature, apply for replacement of the heating tube. If the heating tube can heat up and the temperature shows negative value/0/error, apply for replacement of the thermistor.

When the Z-axis motor moves, the screw seems to be out of concentricity, and the motor cannot be lowered to the lowest point

Solution:
Loosen the screw nut (T-bar nut) fixing screw, adjust it to a suitable position and re-lock it.

The motor continues to move beyond the range of the printing platform

Solution:
Check whether the printer model in the slicing software is set normally.

When the motor returns to zero, it still moves forward after hitting the limit switch

Solution:
Use the replacement method to check whether the limit switch is normal, if not, apply for replacement of the limit switch.

No response when turning on the power switch

Solution:
1. Check the power socket and replace the socket to judge, observe whether the power indicator is on to judge whether the motherboard is faulty 2. Check the fuse 3. Reconnect the screen cable tightly. 4. If none of the above methods can be solved, please contact the manufacturer First check whether the input power socket is normal, you can try to replace the socket, if the 220v output power is normal, then you can open the chassis base to see if the power indicator of the chassis inside is on, when this is also on, but the machine cannot start normally If so, you can check whether the indicator light of the motherboard is on. If it is off, either the input power cord is loose or the motherboard has a problem.    There is a problem with the fuse. The seat of the covered wire is in the socket at the back. It is a small rectangle. You can take out the fuse to see if there is a fuse open. If so, just replace a fuse. If the power indicator is on and the motherboard indicator is on, then see if the screen cable is loose, plug in the screen cable again and try it out. If it still fails, it is recommended to replace the motherboard with a new one.

How to solve the problem of the nozzle temperature not heating up

Solution:
1. Replace the heating tube 2. Replace the insulation cotton 3. The wiring is loose, check whether the heating pipe joint is inserted tightly, and tighten it again to check; 4. Please contact the manufacturer for motherboard problems The heating tube is aging. Long-term use will damage the hardware of the machine. No one knows when these accessories will be broken, and the wear parts like the nozzle are more prone to problems, so you can spare a set of nozzles The kit, so that it can be replaced if there is a problem, which can save time when one of the nozzle kits has a problem. If it doesn’t work after replacing a set of nozzle kits, it may be related to the motherboard. Check the heating tube circuit and try it. If it fails, you can measure the output voltage of the two ports of the heating tube on the motherboard. Normally it is 24v. If there is no output voltage, it may be a problem with the motherboard. At this time, the motherboard needs to be repaired to solve the problem.

The card slot does not read the card

Solution:
1. Check whether the SD card is faulty 2. Check if the card slot is loose 3. Alcohol cleaning First of all, check if there is a problem with the SD card. You can check whether the card can be used normally on the computer. If the SD card can be used normally on the computer, then you can save the file on the computer and format the card. Next, try plugging it into the machine. Note that the side with the chip is facing upwards, and there will be a click when plugged in. If it is plugged in under power on, refresh the SD card and select the last refresh on the interface. If the card slot problem is found, the motherboard needs to be replaced.

3D printer temperature fluctuation

Solution:
1. Add high temperature cotton to the nozzle    2. Clean up consumable glue    3. Check if the line is loose    4. Please contact the manufacturer for motherboard problems The machine nozzle and hot bed have a temperature fluctuation. This temperature fluctuation is in a relatively small range, usually about plus or minus 3 degrees. This range is normal. If your machine temperature fluctuation occurs more than ten degrees or more If it is, it is very likely to be a hardware problem, such as a thermal problem. A customer did not perform leveling during the printing process, and then the printing filament stuck to the nozzle, but it was not cleaned up, causing the filament to squeeze The heat sensitivity makes the heat sensitive contact bad, the temperature will be normal for a while, but it is enough to replace a heat sensitive, so the consumable glue on the nozzle must be cleaned, otherwise it will cause the normal use of the machine. Insulation cotton is aging, and the machine has been used for a long time. Each component will gradually undergo an aging process, such as insulation cotton and heating tube. If it is a new machine, the effect of insulation cotton may not be obvious, but it may be Can play a certain role. Insulation cotton will play a very important role in insulation, it can better prevent the loss of temperature. Motherboard factor, as mentioned above, there will be an aging process when the machine is used for a long time, and the motherboard will also have it. If all conditions are good, you can check the motherboard. If it is a problem with the motherboard, you need to replace the motherboard. A vitality piece can be solved.

Solution to unstable extrusion of 3D printer:

Solution:
To make your 3D printer print high-precision prints, you need an extruder that can stably extrude plastic. In different parts of the print, the extruded filaments vary, which will affect the final print quality. By carefully observing the printing process, you can identify the problem of unstable extrusion. For example, if the printer prints a 20mm long straight line, but you find that the extruded filament looks uneven, or the size seems to fluctuate, then you may have encountered this problem. We have excerpted, squeezing out unstable, several common causes, and introduced how to avoid them. Unstable extrusion    The wires are stuck or twisted together    The first thing you need to check is the supply roll of your printer. You need to make sure that the consumable roll can rotate smoothly and the plastic wire can be easily pulled out of the roll. If the wire is messy, or the resistance of the filament roll to freely rotate is too great, this will affect the smooth extrusion from the nozzle. Check whether the pouring tube is inserted to the end, you need to check whether the wire can pass through the tube smoothly and there is not much resistance. If the resistance in the tube is too great, you need to try to clean a tube and insert the pouring tube until it is next to the nozzle.    plug    If the wire is not jammed and the extruder can be pushed easily, the nozzle itself is the next thing to check. There may be some small fragments or foreign objects entering the nozzle, preventing normal extrusion. The simple way to test this possibility is to manually increase the temperature on the machine and manually extrude some plastic from the nozzle. Observe to ensure that the plastic extrusion is continuous and stable. If you find a problem, you may need to clean the nozzle. Please contact your printer provider to obtain the correct method for cleaning the inside of the nozzle.   The floor height is too small    If the wire rotates smoothly and the extruder is not blocked, it will be useful to check some settings in the cura slice. For example, if you are trying to print a very small layer height, such as 0.05mm, there will be only a small space for the plastic extrusion nozzle. There is only a 0.05mm gap under the nozzle, which means that the plastic may be difficult to extrude. Double-check that you are using a layer height that is appropriate for your printing. In basic-quality-layer height, if you print with a very small layer height, try increasing the layer height to see if the problem is solved.   Extruder mechanical failure If you have checked all the above conditions, but still have the problem of unstable extrusion, then you may need to check your extruder for mechanical failure. For example, many extruders use drive gears with sharp teeth that bite into the wire. This makes it easier to pull the wire before and after the extruder. This extruder can usually adjust the pressure of the gear on the wire. If the setting is too loose, the drive gear will not bite into the wire deep enough, which will affect the extruder's ability to accurately control the position of the wire.

The solution for the details of the 3D printer that cannot be printed.

Solution:
On your 3D printer, there is a fixed size nozzle, with which you can accurately print out very fine details. For example, many printers are equipped with nozzles with 0.4mm diameter openings. This is sufficient when printing many pieces, but you will encounter problems when printing extremely small details that are smaller than the nozzle diameter. For example, you are trying to print a thin wall of 0.2mm with a 0.4mm nozzle. The problem is that you cannot accurately produce 0.2mm extruded filaments from a 0.4mm extruder. The width of the extruded filament must always be greater than or equal to the nozzle diameter. Therefore, when you open "Layer Preview" in CURA, you will find that the software has deleted subtle features. The software tells you in this way that you cannot use the nozzles currently installed on your printer to print such subtle features. If you often print small details, this will be a problem you often encounter. There are several options that allow you to successfully print such subtle details. Next, we introduce one by one. Details cannot be printed    Redesign the thin-walled model    The most obvious option is to redesign your model so that it contains only features larger than the diameter of your nozzle. Usually this involves editing the 3D model in the CAD file to modify the size of subtle features. After you increase the thickness of the subtle features, you can re-import the model into CURA to check whether your printer can print the 3D shape you created. If the feature can be seen in the preview mode, the printer can print the modified feature.    Install nozzle with smaller opening diameter Most of the time, you cannot edit the original 3D model directly. For example, it can be designed by someone else, or you can download it from the Internet. At this point, you need to consider matching your printer with a second nozzle to print subtle features. In most printers, the nozzles are detachable, which makes it easier to adjust after purchase. For example, you can buy a 0.3mm and a 0.5mm nozzle at the same time, so there are two options.

Solutions to 3D printer vibration and loop texture

Solution:
Loop is the wavy texture that appears on the surface of the print, which is caused by printer vibration. Usually, you will see this kind of texture when the extruder turns suddenly, such as near a sharp corner. For example, if you print a 20mm square, every time the extruder prints the other side of the square, it needs to change its direction. When the direction changes suddenly, the inertia of the extruder will cause vibration, which will appear on the printed part. Next, we will discuss the most common ways to cause loopbacks and explain the reasons. Vibration and loop texture    Printing too fast    The most common cause of looped texture is that you are trying to print too fast. When the printer suddenly changes direction, the rapid movement will cause more force, which will produce lingering vibration. If you think your printer is printing too fast, try to reduce the printing speed. Adjust the printing speed in Basic-Speed/Temperature-Printing Speed (mm/s). The appropriate printing speed is generally between 30-80. Different models have different speeds, which are usually 50mm/s. If there is vibration and loop texture, you can try to reduce the printing speed a bit.   Mechanical failure    If other methods can not solve the loopback problem, then you may need to check the mechanical factors, which may cause excessive vibration. For example, the screws may be loose, the bracket may be damaged, which will cause excessive vibration. While printing, observe your printer carefully and try to check where the vibration is generated. By the way, rub a layer of grease on the screw rod to lubricate the screw rod, and check whether the platform is loose. If it is loose, you can adjust the eccentric nut under the platform to achieve the purpose of tightening.

How to solve the linear texture on the side of 3D printed parts

Solution:
The appearance of a 3D printed part consists of hundreds of layers. If everything is normal, these layers will look like an overall smooth surface. Then, if there is a problem with only one layer, it can be clearly found on the outer surface of the print. These incorrect layers will cause the appearance of the print to look like a linear texture. Usually such defects appear periodically, which means that the lines appear regularly (for example, once every 15 layers). Next, several common causes will be discussed. Side linear texture    Unstable extrusion   The most likely cause of this problem is the poor quality of the wire. If the wire tolerance is large, you will find this change on the outer wall of the print. For example, if the diameter of your entire roll of consumables only fluctuates by 5%, the width of the plastic line extruded from the nozzle will change by 0.05mm. This extra amount of extrusion will cause the corresponding layer to be wider than the other layers, and finally a line will be seen on the outer wall of the print. In order to produce a smooth surface, your printer needs a stable extrusion condition, which requires high-quality consumables. Please read Unstable Extrusion to learn about other causes of fluctuations.    temperature fluctuation Most 3D printers use pins to adjust the temperature of the extruder. If the pins are not tuned properly, the temperature of the extruder will fluctuate over time. In view of the principle of pin control, this fluctuation will recur frequently, which means that the temperature will fluctuate like a sine wave. When the temperature is too high, the smoothness of plastic extrusion is different from when it is colder. This will cause the printer to extrude different layers, resulting in textures on the outer surface of the print. A properly tuned printer should be able to control the temperature of the extruder between plus and minus 5 degrees. The heating block of the machine is wrapped with thermal insulation cotton, which can ensure the stability of the temperature.

Holes and gaps on the corners of the bottom surface during 3D printing

Solution:
When 3D printing, each layer is constructed on the basis of the previous layer. However, the amount of plastic used for printing is also a factor. Therefore, there is a balance between the strength of the foundation and the amount of plastic used. If the foundation is not strong enough, there will be holes and gaps between layers. Especially at the corners where the size changes (for example, you print a 20cm square on a 40cm square). When printing to a smaller size, you need to make sure that there is enough foundation to support the 20mm square side wall. There are usually several reasons for the weak foundation. Insufficient number of holes and gap edges on the corners of the bottom surface is a print, adding more contour edges will obviously strengthen the foundation. Because the inside of the print is usually partially hollow, the outer wall is thin and thick, which will have a great impact. There is a wall thickness setting in the basic setting. The wall thickness setting is generally a multiple of the nozzle. For example, if your nozzle is 0.4mm, the wall thickness is generally set between 0.8mm-1.6mm. If you set it at the beginning 0.8mm, but there are holes on the outer wall of the printed model, then you can appropriately add one or two layers of wall thickness to improve it. The appropriate wall thickness is generally 1.2mm, so that it will not take too long to print out the model will not have holes.    Insufficient number of solid layers on top    Another common cause of a weak foundation is that your printing has insufficient solid filling layers on the top layer. The upper wall is too thin to fully support the structure punched on it. To modify this setting, you can Basic-Fill-Bottom/Top Thickness. If the default thickness is 0.8mm but the printout still has holes and the capping is not sufficient, then you can set the bottom/top thickness to 1.0mmz-1.2mm In this way, the top and bottom layers can be more closed.   The filling rate is too low The last setting you need to check is the fill rate, which is controlled by a slider under "Slice Settings" or under the "Filling" tab. The top solid layer is constructed on top of the top filling, so enough filling to support these layers is very important. For example, if the fill rate you set before is 20%, try increasing this value to 40% to see if the print quality has improved.

How to solve 3D printing top surface scars

Solution:
The benefit of 3D printing is that each print is constructed one layer at a time. This means that each layer is independent, and the nozzle can freely move to any position on the platform, while the print is still under construction. This provides many opportunities, and you may see that the nozzle will leave marks when it moves on the surface of the previous layer. It is easiest to see through the upper surface of the print. This kind of scar occurs when the nozzle is moved to a new position and dragged over the previously printed plastic. The following chapters will explore several possible causes and provide corresponding suggestions to adjust which settings to avoid problems. Excessive plastic extrusion from the top surface scar    The first thing you need to make sure is that your extruder does not extrude too much plastic. If you extrude too much plastic, each layer will tend to be thicker than preset. This means that as the nozzle moves through each layer, it may drag previously over-extruded plastic. Before you check other settings, you need to make sure you have not squeezed too much plastic. Please refer to the "Excessive Extrusion" section to learn more.    vertical lift (Z lift) If you are sure that the extruder has the correct amount of plastic, but you still encounter the problem of the nozzle dragging on the upper surface, then you need to look at the vertical lift setting in CURA. Enabling this option will cause the nozzle to lift a certain distance before moving on the previously printed layer. When it reaches the target position, the nozzle will move back to its original height for printing. By moving up to a certain height, the nozzle can avoid scratching the upper surface of the print. To enable this function, click Tools-Open Expert Settings-there is a "Z-axis lift height when retreating" in the rewind, which is generally set to about 0.5mm. For example, if you enter 0.5mm, the nozzle will always rise 0.5mm before moving to a new position. Please note that the uplift will only occur during the retraction action.

How to fill the gap between 3D printing and contour

Solution:
Reorganize the prints, which are composed of contour edges and fills. The outer edge path of the contour constitutes a strong and precise outer surface of the print. The fill is printed on the inside along the edge to fill the remaining space of the layer. Usually fills use a fast round-trip texture, so that the printing speed is faster. The filling has different textures, and it is important that the outline of the print and the filling are firmly bonded together. If you find that there is a gap at the edge of the filling, there are several settings here, you need to check. The gap between the fill and the contour is not overlapped enough There is a setting in    CURA that allows you to adjust the bond strength between the outer contour and the filling. This setting is called "fill overlap", and it determines how much fill will overlap on the outline to connect the two parts. Click "Tools-Open Expert Settings-Fill-Fill Coincidence (%)". This value is determined according to the percentage of your extruded filament width, so it is easy to expand and adjust for nozzles of different specifications. For example, if you set an overlap of 20%, it means that the software will command the printer, and the padding will overlap the innermost outer edge by 15%. This overlap helps to ensure a strong bond between the two parts. For example, if you used 15% overlap before, try increasing it to 20% to see if the gap between the edge and the fill disappears.   Fill and print too fast The filling speed of your printout is much faster than the outline. If the filling is printed too fast, it will not have enough time to adhere to the outer contour. If you try to increase the outline overlap, but still see the gap between the outline and the fill, then you need to reduce the printing speed. You can modify the filling and printing speed in Advanced. For example, the default value above is 0.0. 0.0 means the filling speed is the same as the printing speed, so you can reset the filling and printing speed, such as 30mm/s to see if there is any improvement. . Try twice to find the best result.

Solutions for spots and scars on 3D printed parts

Solution:
Note: This setting can only be set in simplify3d, so the following explanation is simplified3d content, those who are interested can contact us to give you the software and set the parameters for you. Solutions for spots and scars    During the 3D printing process, when the extruder moves to different positions, it must continue to stop or start extruding. Most extruders can produce consistent extrusion lines when running. Then every time the extruder is turned off and then turned on, it will change significantly. For example, if you observe the shell of your 3D printed part, you will find that there are some small traces in the performance, appearing in the area where the extrusion starts. The extruder must start printing from a certain position of the shell of your 3D model, and when the entire shell is printed, the nozzle will return to that position. This is often called a spot or scar. As you can imagine, it is difficult to join two pieces of plastic together without leaving any marks, but Simplify3D provides several jobs to minimize this surface flaw. (Note: This can only be set via S3D.)    draw back and slide    If you notice small flaws on the print, the best way to find out what is causing this phenomenon is to carefully observe each edge on the print. Do these flaws appear when the extruder starts to print along the edge? Or does it only appear after the edge is completed, when the extruder is about to stop? If the small blemish happens to appear at the beginning of the start ring, then it is likely that your retraction setting needs to be adjusted slightly. Click "Edit ProcessSettings" to open the "Extruders tab". Below the withdrawal distance setting, there will be a name called "Extra Restart Distance". This option determines the difference between the withdrawal distance when the extruder stops and the distance when the extrusion restarts to fill. If the performance flaw is found at the beginning of the edge printing, then the extruder may have extruded too much plastic. You can reduce the reloading distance by entering a negative value in the restart reload setting. For example, if the withdrawal distance is 1.0mm, and then the refilling distance is -0.2mm (note the negative sign), then every time the extruder stops, it will withdraw 0.1mm of plastic. However, every time the extruder restarts, it will only push 0.8mm plastic back to the nozzle. Adjust this setting until the blemishes at the edge of the extruder start to print no longer appear.    If this kind of flaw only appears when the edge ends and the extruder is about to stop, then there is another different setting. This setting is called coasting. You can find it on the extruder tab, under the withdrawal settings. When the edge is about to end, sliding will close the extruder for a short distance to eliminate the nozzle drop pressure. Turn on this setting and increase the value until you no longer see flaws appearing at the end of the edge and the extruder will stop in the future. Generally, if the sliding distance is set between 0.2 and 0.5mm, a very obvious effect can be obtained.    avoid unnecessary withdrawal    The retraction and sliding settings mentioned above can help avoid the defects caused by each nozzle retraction. Then in some cases, it is better to avoid retraction altogether. In this way, the extruder does not have to reverse the direction, but can perform beautiful and consistent extrusion. For machines using Bowden extruders, this is even more important, because the large distance between the extruder and the nozzle makes the withdrawal more troublesome. To adjust the settings that control withdrawal occurs, you can open the Advanced tab and look for the "Ooze Control Behavior" paragraph. This paragraph contains many useful settings that can modify the behavior of your printer. As we mentioned in the "Drawing" chapter, the retraction is mainly used to prevent the nozzle from drooping when the nozzle moves between different printed parts of the print. However, if the nozzle does not move to the open area, the sagging will occur inside the model and cannot be seen from the outside. For this reason, many printers need to turn on the "retract only when moving to an open space" setting to avoid unnecessary retraction.   Another related setting can be found in the "Mobile Behavior" section. If your printer only retracts when it is moved to an open space, it is better to avoid such open space as much as possible. There is a very useful setting in Simplify3D, which can make the movement path of the extruder turn to avoid intersection with the outer edge of the contour. If the movement path of the extruder is modified to avoid intersection with the contour, then the withdrawal will be unnecessary. To use this feature, simply turn on the "Avoid intersection of movement path and outer contour" option.    Non-fixed withdrawal    Another very useful feature of Simplify3D is the ability to achieve non-fixed retraction. This is very useful for Bolton extruder, when printing, there is very high pressure in the nozzle. Usually, after this type of machine stops extruding, the extruder is left to stand still. Due to the internal pressure, it will still extrude a small lump. Therefore, Simplify3D has added a unique option that allows you to keep the nozzle in motion when performing a retraction action. This means that you are less likely to see the static small tuo, because the extruder has been moving during this process. To tear off this option, we need to modify some settings. First, click "Edit ProcessSettings" and open the "Extruders tab". Make sure that the "Wipe Nozzle" option is turned on. This will tell the printer to wipe the nozzles before the end of the segment printing . And "Wipe Distance (Wipe Distance) option, set to 5mm, is a better starting point. Then open the Advanced tab and turn on the option "Perform withdrawal during wiping movement". This will avoid static retraction, because the printer has been ordered to wipe the nozzle during retraction. This is a very powerful and useful feature, if you are still facing the problem of surface flaws on the print, you can give it a try.    Use starting position If you still see imperfections on the surface of the print, Simplify3d also provides another option to control where these dots appear. Click "Edit ProcessSettings" to open the "Layer Tab". In most cases, these positions are chosen to optimize printing speed. Then, you can also randomize these locations or set them to a specific location. For example, if you are printing a statue, you need to set all the starting points, starting on the back of the model so that they cannot be seen from the front. To do this, turn on the "Select the place closest to a certain location as the starting point" option, and then enter the XY coordinates of the starting position you want as the starting point.

The solution to the inadequate filling of 3D prints

Solution:
The filling part of the 3D printed part plays a very important role in increasing the strength of the model. In 3D printing, the filling is responsible for connecting the outer shell, while also supporting the outer surface to be printed on. If the filling appears weak or slender, you need to adjust several settings in the software to enhance this part. Solutions to poor filling    reduce printing speed    In the 3D printing process, the filling speed is usually faster than the printing speed of other parts. If you try to make the printing speed too fast, the extruder may not be able to keep up, and there will be insufficient output in the model. This insufficient discharge will result in a weak, slender filling, because the nozzle cannot squeeze out enough plastic as the software expects. If you have tried several filling textures, but the filling is still not strong, try reducing the printing speed. Adjust the "default printing speed", this parameter directly determines the speed used when filling. For example, if you used to print at a speed of 60mm/S, try reducing this value by half to see if the filling starts to become stronger.   Increase the width of filling extruded yarn    CURA 2.7.0 version, a very useful feature is that it can modify the width of the extruded filament used to fill the print. For example, you can use an extruded wire width of 0.4mm to print the periphery, but you can use an extruded wire width of 0.8 for filling. This will create thicker and stronger filled walls, which may increase the strength of the 3D printed part. To modify this setting, you can adjust it in print settings-quality-trace width (filling). "Line width (filling)" is determined by the aperture size of the nozzle. For example, the nozzle width of 0.4 is 0.4mm, and it is generally better to set it as an integral multiple of the nozzle. One thing to remember: When you adjust this setting, the software will also maintain the fill rate you set. So if you set the filling width to be twice that of the nozzle, each filling line will use twice as much plastic. In order to maintain the same fill rate, the distance between the fill lines will become farther. Therefore, after increasing the width of the filled extruded yarn, many users tend to increase the filling rate.

Solution to stop extrusion in the middle of 3D printing

Solution:
If your printer extrudes normally at the beginning, but then suddenly stops extruding, there are usually some factors that may cause this problem. We will explore the common causes one by one and provide suggestions to solve the problem. If your printer has problems with extrusion at the beginning, please refer to "After printing starts, there is no extrusion of consumables".    Consumables run out    This situation is obvious. But when checking other problems, first confirm whether there are consumables fed into the extruder. If the wire in the wire roll runs out, you need to install a new roll of consumables before starting printing. Extrusion stops the wire and drive gear from slipping during printing   During the printing process, the motor of the extruder will continuously rotate to push the wire into the nozzle, so that your printer can continue to extrude the plastic. If you try to print too fast, or you try to extrude too much plastic, it may cause the motor to shave off the wire until the drive gear can't catch the wire. If the extruder motor is rotating, but the wire is not moving, this is probably the reason. Please refer to the "Planing" chapter for more detailed instructions on how to solve this problem.    nozzle clogged    If it is not in any of the noodles, it is likely that the nozzle is clogged. If this happens during the printing process, you may need to check to make sure that the wire is clean and there is no dust on the wire roll. If enough dust is adhered to the wire, it may block the print head during printing. There are other possible causes that cause nozzle clogging. Please refer to the "Nozzle clogged" chapter for more information.   Extruder motor drive overheated    During the printing process, the motor load of the extruder is very heavy. It continuously rotates back and forth, pushing and pulling the wire forward and backward. These fast movements require a lot of current. If the printer's circuit does not effectively dissipate heat, it may cause the motor drive circuit to overheat. This kind of motor drive usually has overheat protection, when the temperature is too high, it will stop the motor. When this happens, the motor of the XY axis will rotate and move the nozzle, but the motor of the extruder will not move at all. The only way to solve this problem is to turn off the printer so that the circuit can cool down. If the printing time is very long, you can let the machine rest for an hour after printing to lower the temperature of the motherboard.

How to solve the 3D printer nozzle blockage

Solution:
Your 3D printer needs to melt and extrude several kilograms of plastic during its life cycle. All plastic must be squeezed out through a hole the size of sand, which complicates the problem. Inevitably, during this process, some problems sometimes occur, and the extruder can no longer push the plastic through the nozzle. This blockage is often caused by something in the nozzle that prevents the plastic from being properly extruded. When this kind of problem first appeared, it was a little overwhelming, but next, we will introduce a few simple steps to fix the blocked nozzle. The nozzle is blocked and manually push the wire into the extruder    The first thing you might want to do is try to manually push the wire into the extruder. In the machine control, manually increase the nozzle temperature, set the temperature to 230 degrees, when the temperature is reached, then select the moving axis-move 1mm-extruder in the preparation to extrude a small amount of plastic. If it still doesn't work, you can turn off the stepper motor first, and then manually feed the material into the nozzle. In most cases, this extra force can make the wire pass through the problematic position.   Reinstall the cable    If the wire is still not moving, the next thing you need to do is to remove the wire. Confirm that the temperature of the extruder is correct, and then pull out the consumables from the extruder. After the wire is pulled out, use scissors to cut off the melted or damaged part of the wire. Then reinstall the wire to see if the new and undamaged wire can be extruded. During this process, you can set the nozzle temperature a little higher to 230 degrees and then squeeze it out.   Clean the nozzle--the nozzle is blocked    If you cannot squeeze the new plastic through the nozzle, you may need to clean the nozzle before continuing. Slight plugging can be solved by increasing the nozzle temperature to clean with a small needle, and then manually feeding the nozzle. If the blockage is serious, it is necessary to replace the nozzle and clean the material pipe inside the throat to solve it. If you need to clean the nozzle video, you can contact we.

3D printer planing solution

Solution:
Most 3D printers use a pinion and another bearing to clamp the wire so that the gear can grab the wire. The driving gear has sharp teeth, which can bite into the wire, and then rely on the rotation direction of the gear to push the wire back and forth. If the wire cannot move, but the gear continues to rotate, the gear may shave some plastic from the wire, so that the gear has no place to grab the wire. Many people call this situation "planing." Because too much plastic was shaved off, the extrusion function was abnormal. If this happens to your printer, you will usually see many plastic fragments scattered all over the floor. You will also see that the extruder is rotating, but the wire is not pushed into the extruder. In the following we will introduce the easiest way to solve this problem. Planing to increase printing temperature    If you have been experiencing problems with planing, try to increase the temperature of the nozzle by 5 to 10 degrees, so that the plastic extrusion is easier. You can modify the printing temperature to set it. There is a printing temperature in the basic, which can be set again when slicing and printing on the slicing. Plastics are always easier to extrude when the temperature is high, so this is a very useful setting that can be adjusted.    Printing speed is too fast    After increasing the temperature, if you still encounter the problem of planing, the next thing you need to do is to reduce the printing speed. By doing this, the motor of the extruder does not need to rotate at that high speed, because the wire takes longer to extrude. Reducing the motor speed of the extruder can help avoid planing problems. For example, if your printing speed was 3600mm/min (60mm/s) before, try to reduce this value by one third to see if the problem of planing material disappears.    Check if the nozzle is blocked    After lowering the temperature and printing speed, if you still have the problem of planing, then the nozzle may be clogged. Then you need to clean the nozzle. First, if the blockage is not serious, the consumables will come out intermittently, then you increase the printing temperature to 230 degrees, and then use a small needle to pass the nozzle several times and then manually feed it out. Whether the material can be discharged normally, it is okay if it is normal. If it is not working after it is passed, you can replace a new nozzle, then clean the inside of the throat, check whether the discharge pipe is normal, and sometimes need to replace it with a new one Just pipe.   Teflon tube carbonized planing material in throat There is a small section of Teflon tube in the machine throat. The Teflon tube is high temperature resistant, but the Teflon tube will gradually be carbonized when working in a high temperature environment for a long time, resulting in a relatively small Teflon tube. The channel shrinks, and then the subsequent extrusion is not smooth, resulting in insufficient discharge and jamming. To withdraw the Teflon tube under heating, if it is carbonized, you can cut a section of the same length and replace it and install it.

How to deal with layer cracking or disconnection during 3D printing

Solution:
3D printing builds a model by printing one layer at a time. Each subsequent layer is printed on the previous layer, and finally the desired 3D shape is constructed. Then, in order to make the final print strong and reliable, you need to make sure that each layer is fully bonded to the layer below it. If the layers are not well bonded, the final print may crack or break. Next, we will explore some typical causes and corresponding solutions. Treatment method for layer cracking or disconnection   The floor height is too high    Most 3D printer nozzle diameters are between 0.2 and 0.6mm. The plastic is extruded from this small hole to form a very fine extruded filament, and then build a detailed print. However, these small nozzles also lead to the limitation of layer height. When you print another layer of plastic on one layer, you need to make sure that the new layer is squeezed onto the layer below so that the two layers can be glued together. Generally, you need to make sure that the layer height you choose is 20% smaller than the nozzle diameter. For example, if your nozzle diameter is 0.4mm, the layer height you use cannot exceed 0.32mm, otherwise the plastic on each layer will not be able to properly bond with the layer below it. The appropriate layer height is generally set at 0.1-0.24. At the same time, this guarantees the surface accuracy of the model, and the adhesion is very good. So, if you find that the print is cracked and the layers are not glued together, the first thing you need to check is that the layer height matches the nozzle diameter. Try reducing the layer height to see if the layers can bond better.    Printing temperature is too low   Compared with cold plastic, hot plastic always adheres better. If you find that the layers are not well bonded, and you can be sure that the layer height setting is not too high, then it may be your wire that needs to be printed at a higher temperature for better bonding. For example, if you try to print ABS plastic at 190 degrees Celsius, you may find that the layers separate easily. This is because ABS generally needs to be printed at 230 to 260 degrees Celsius in order to bond layer to layer strongly. So if you think this may be the problem, make sure that the correct printing temperature is used for the wire you bought. Try increasing the temperature by 10 degrees Celsius each time to see if the adhesion improves.    The printing speed is too fast and the wall thickness is too thin    At the same time and speed, it can be imagined that there must be a certain difference between the adhesion of the model printed at a speed of 100mm/s and the layer-to-layer adhesion of the model printed at a speed of 50mm/s in the same time. The same is true for wall thickness. Compared with 1.2mm, 0.4mm is easy to tear and split, but 1.2mm is not so easy. If it is cold in winter, the wall is too thin Thicker layers are easier to split. Treatment method for layer cracking or disconnection Proper printing speed with proper wall thickness and filling can more effectively avoid model layer split.

Solutions to layer misalignment in 3D printing

Solution:
Most 3D printers use an open loop control system. To put it bluntly, they have no feedback on the actual position of the nozzle. The printer simply tries to move the print head to a certain position and hope it will get there. Most of the time, this is feasible because the stepper motor that drives the printer is very powerful, and there will be no huge load to prevent the print head from moving. Then, if there is a problem, the printer will have no way to find it. For example, when you are printing, you suddenly hit your printer, and you may cause the print head to move to a new position. There is no feedback from the machine to recognize this situation. So, it will continue to print as if nothing happened. If you find that the layers in the printer are misaligned, it may be caused by one of the reasons listed below. Unfortunately, once these errors occur, the printer has no way to detect and deal with the problem. So we will explore how to solve this problem. Layer dislocation:  The nozzle moves too fast    If you print at a high speed, the motor of the 3D printer will try to support it. If you try to print at a faster speed than the motor can withstand, you will usually hear a clicking sound and the motor cannot rotate to the expected position. In this case, the next printed layer will be misaligned with all the previous printed layers. If you think your printer is printing too fast, try reducing the printing speed by 50% to see if it helps. If you want to continue printing the model during the printing process, you can directly rotate the knob to adjust the printing speed of the model, that is, the rate (FR100%) can be appropriately reduced.    The nozzle is scratched to the model during printing Sometimes the nozzle will scratch the model during the printing process, especially in the process of moving from one point to another. After reaching the position, the nozzle does not have any lifting process, and it is directly stuck on. This is easy to scratch the model. , But the machine itself cannot be sensed, so the nozzle will continue to work, but the printed model may have been misplaced. At this time, you need to find the tool in the slice, open the expert settings inside, and set the Z axis when retreating Lifting height. Proper Z-axis lifting height can prevent the nozzle from scratching the model and causing misalignment, which can be set at 0.3. Layer dislocation: Model problem There are many ways to source the model, you can download it online, you can model it yourself, or you can use a scanner to reverse the model; the model downloaded online is prone to problems, when it is downloaded, it looks normal, but it will appear after the slice is printed. All kinds of strange problems, the faulty layer is also among them, after the slicing is completed, there is a layer preview, you can preview each layer after the word is cut, and check whether each layer is normal. If the layer is suddenly out The root line, then this model must be problematic. The normal model previews the nozzle movement trajectory of each layer around the model, so you can check this after each layer is cut to ensure that the model itself is not questionable.   Affected by external forces The machine itself is driven by a belt driven by a motor. A small external force may affect the movement of the nozzle, causing the motor to lose steps, or the model exceeds the size of the forming platform when slicing, and the nozzle loses step on the edge of the platform. Split level. So try not to have other irrelevant items or human interference next to the printer.    Mechanical problem    If the speed is reduced and the misalignment problem still occurs, it is possible that your printer has mechanical or electronic problems. For example, most 3D printers use synchronization belts for motor drive to control the position of the print head. The timing belt is generally made of rubber and reinforced by some kind of fiber. After a long time of use, the timing belt may slack, which will affect the tension of the nozzle of the timing belt. If the tension is not enough, the timing belt may slip on the timing wheel, which means that the timing wheel has rotated, but the timing belt has not moved. If the timing belt is originally installed too tightly, it can also cause problems. Excessively tightened timing belts will cause excessive friction between the bearings and hinder the rotation of the motor. Ideally, the belt is tight enough to prevent slippage, but not too tight to prevent the system from running. If you are dealing with misalignment, you need to make sure that the tension of all timing belts is appropriate and not too loose or too tight. If you think there may be a problem, you can adjust the passive pulley of the belt to adjust the tightness of the timing belt. Layer dislocation:    Check whether the synchronous wheel on the motor is locked, because the synchronous wheel is fixed on the motor shaft by two top screws. If the top screw of the synchronous wheel is loose, the motor will run dry, causing loss of steps, and the model will be dislocated. The solution to this is very simple, just print a simple model for verification after tightening the top wire.

3D printing temperature overheating solution

Solution:
The plastic extruded from the extruder has at least 190 to 240 degrees Celsius. When the plastic is still hot, it is still soft and can be easily molded into different shapes. Then, when it cools, it quickly becomes a solid and takes shape. You need to achieve a normal balance between temperature and cooling, so that the plastic can flow smoothly from the nozzle, but it can be solidified quickly to obtain the accuracy of the printed part. If you fail to reach the balance, you will encounter some print quality problems, and the appearance of the prints is not accurate, which is different from what you expected. As shown in the figure, the wire extruded at the top of the pyramid failed to cool and shape as quickly as possible. The following chapters will investigate several common causes of overheating and how to avoid them. Overheating / insufficient heat dissipation    The most common cause of overheating is the failure of the plastic to cool down in time. When the cooling is slow, the plastic is easily changed shape. For multi-plastics, it is better to cool the printed layers quickly to prevent them from deforming. If your printer has a cooling fan, try to increase the fan's wind power to make the plastic cool faster. The speed of the fan can be adjusted. A percentage of the fan speed will be displayed in the upper corner of the screen. The speed can be adjusted in the control during printing. The fastest speed is 255. The general model will turn on the fan at full speed after printing the bottom layer.    Printing temperature is too high    If you have used a cooling fan but still have problems, you may need to try to lower the printing temperature. If the plastic is extruded from the nozzle at a lower temperature, it may solidify and form faster. Try to lower the printing temperature by 5 to 10 degrees to see the effect. The printing temperature of PLA is generally 190-210. If you set the temperature too high, the consumables will melt completely from the nozzle, and they will be more easily deformed when they are stacked. The printing temperature of consumables of different manufacturers is different. You need to test the most suitable printing temperature yourself. The best is the best.    Printing too fast    If you print each layer very fast, you may not have enough time for the layer to cool down properly, but start printing a new layer on it. This is especially important when printing small models, as each layer has only a small amount of time to print. Even with a cooling fan, for these very small layers, you still need to reduce the printing speed to ensure that there is enough time for the layers to solidify. Fortunately, there is a minimum printing time setting for each layer in cura advanced. If your printing time for each layer is very small, you can set the time longer. This setting item is used to automatically print a small layer. Reduce the speed to ensure that they have enough time to cool and solidify when starting to print the next layer. For example, if you allow, the software adjusts the printing speed when the printing time is less than 10 seconds, and the program will automatically reduce the printing speed for these small layers. This is a key feature for solving high heat problems.    When none of the above methods work, try printing multiple prints at once    If you have tried the above 3 methods, but still have problems with cooling, there is another method, you can try it. Make a copy of the model you want to print, or import another model that can be printed at the same time. By printing two models at the same time, you can provide more cooling time for each model. The nozzle will need to be moved to a different position to print the second model, which provides an opportunity to cool the first model. This is very simple, but it is a very effective strategy to solve the problem of overheating.

How to solve wire drawing or hanging material in 3D printing

Solution:
When small plastic threads remain on the 3D printed parts, wire drawing occurs. Usually, this is because the plastic hangs out of the nozzle when the nozzle is moved to a new position. Fortunately, in cura, there are several settings that may help solve this problem. To solve the problem of drawing, the most commonly used method is "withdrawal". If the retraction is turned on, when the extruder finishes printing an area of the model, the wire in the nozzle will be pulled back, so that when printing again, the plastic will be pushed into the nozzle again and extruded from the top of the nozzle. To confirm that the retraction has been turned on, you can click "Advanced-Rewind". Draw back distance   The most important setting for retraction is the retraction distance. It determines how much plastic will be pulled back from the nozzle. Generally speaking, the more plastic that is pulled back from the nozzle, the less likely it is to sag when the nozzle moves. The normal withdrawal length is set in the range of 6-10mm. It depends on the characteristics of the consumables.    Withdrawal speed    The next retraction related setting is the retraction speed. It determines how fast the wire is drawn from the nozzle. If the withdrawal is too slow, the plastic will hang out from the nozzle and start to leak before moving to a new position. If the withdrawal is too fast, the wire may be disconnected from the plastic in the nozzle, and even the rapid rotation of the driving gear may shave off the surface of the wire. There is a range, the withdrawal effect is better, between 3600-6000mm/min (60-100mm/s). The most ideal value depends on the actual material you use. Therefore, you need to do experiments to determine whether different speeds reduce the amount of wire drawing.    The temperature is too high    If you have checked the retraction settings, the next most common factor that causes drawing problems is the temperature of the extruder. If the temperature is too high, the plastic in the nozzle will become very viscous and will flow out more easily. Then, if the temperature is too low, the plastic will remain hard and difficult to extrude from the nozzle. If you think your retraction setting is correct, but this problem occurs, try lowering the extruder temperature to 5 to 10 degrees. This will have a significant impact on the final print quality. The normal PLA printing temperature is between 190-210 °C. If the temperature is set too high, the melting of the consumables will completely cause the draw-back to be not clean enough, and it will be easy to draw. Therefore, the proper nozzle printing temperature setting has a direct effect on the printing model. Affected.    The moving distance in the air is too long   As we discussed above, the drawing takes place in the extruder and moves between two different positions. During the movement, the plastic hangs down from the nozzle. The size of the moving distance has a great influence on the production of wire drawing. The short-range movement is fast enough that the plastic has no time to fall back from the nozzle. Then, large-distance movement is more likely to cause wire drawing. There is no way to change this in cura. (Note: Fortunately, Simplify 3D includes a very useful feature to make the movement path as small as possible. The software is very smart and can automatically adjust the movement path to ensure that the distance the nozzle moves in the air is very small. In fact, most of the time , The software can find a suitable path to avoid moving very far in the air in one breath. This means that there is no possibility of drawing because the nozzle is always above the solid plastic and will not move to the outside of the print. Use this Features, click on the "Advanced tab" to turn on the option of "Avoid moving beyond the outline". So if you are interested, you can expand it yourself and learn to use S3D. Of course, it will be more perfect if you can. So If you are interested, you can learn about the use of Simplify3D by yourself).

Solutions for holes or gaps in the top layer during 3D printing

Solution:
In order to save plastic, most 3D printed parts are composed of a solid shell and a porous hollow inner core. For example: the filling rate of the inner core of the print is only 30%, which means that only 30% of the inner core is plastic, and the other part is air. Although the inner core of the print is partially hollow, we want the surface to be solid. To achieve this goal, CURA allows you to set how many solid layers there are on the top and bottom of your prints. For example, if you print a square with 5 solid layers on top and bottom, the software will print 5 completely solid layers on top and bottom, but the other intermediate layers will be partially hollow. This technology can save a lot of plastic and time, but at the same time it can create strong prints. Of course, depending on which settings you use, you may notice that the top layer of the print is not completely solid. As the extruder constructs these solid layers, you may see holes or gaps. If you encounter this kind of problem, here are a few simple settings that you can adjust to solve the problem. Solutions for holes or gaps in the top layer during printing    Insufficient number of solid layers on top   Adjust the number of solid filling layers on the top layer, which is the first to be used. When printing a 100% solid filled layer on a partially hollow filled layer, the solid layer will span the hollow part of the lower layer. At this time, the plastic extruded on the solid layer tends to sag into the hollow. Therefore, it is usually necessary to print several solid layers on top to obtain a flat and perfect solid surface. A good practice is that the thickness of the solid part of the top layer is at least 0.5mm. So if you use 0.25 as the layer height, you need to print 2 top solid layers. If your printing layer height is lower, for example only 0.1mm, you need to print 5 solid layers on the top to achieve the same effect. If you find gaps between the extruded filaments on the top layer, the first thing is to try to increase the number of top solid layers. For example, if you find this problem and only print 3 top solid layers, try printing 5 solid layers to see if there is any improvement. Note that adding a solid layer will only increase the volume of the plastic inside the print, but will not increase the external dimensions. You can adjust the thickness of the bottom layer and the top layer to improve it.   The filling rate is too low    The filling inside the print will become the foundation of the layer above it. The solid layer at the top of the printout needs to be printed on this basis. If the filling rate is very low, there will be a lot of empty gaps in the filling. For example, if you only use a 10% fill rate, the remaining 90% of the print will be hollow. This will result in a solid layer that needs to be printed on a very large hollow gap. If you have tried increasing the number of solid layers at the top and you can still see gaps at the top, you might try increasing the fill rate to see if the gaps disappear. For example, if your fill rate is set to 30% before, try to use a fill rate of 50%, because this will provide a better foundation for printing the top solid layer.   Insufficient output    If you have tried to increase the fill rate, and the number of top solid layers, but on the top layer of the print, you can still see the gaps. Then you may encounter the problem of insufficient extrusion. This means that the nozzle is not extruding the amount of plastic expected by the software. For a complete solution to this problem, you can refer to the "Insufficient Discharge" chapter.

Solution to insufficient output of 3D printer

Solution:
Cura includes some settings to determine how much plastic the 3D printer extrudes. Then the 3D printer did not report how much plastic has actually flowed out of the nozzle. Therefore, it is possible that the plastic actually extruded is less than what the software expects (the so-called under-extrusion). If this happens, you may notice that there are gaps between adjacent layers. The way to test your printer to see if it squeezes out enough is to print a simple 20mm cube with at least 3 layers of edges. Check that the 3 edges at the top of the box are tightly glued together. If there is a gap between the 3 wires, then you have encountered the problem of insufficient output. If these 3 edges are close to each other and there is no gap, then you may encounter another problem. Solution to insufficient discharge   Incorrect nozzle mouth diameter The nozzle that comes with the machine is 0.4, sometimes you may think it takes a long time to print, and sometimes the customer may not need too high precision. What you need is the appearance of a model, so sometimes you will replace it with a larger aperture. Nozzle, but will forget to change the size of the nozzle on the slice, causing the actual output to be less than the calculated output, resulting in a gap in the middle. At this time, just change the actual aperture of the nozzle.   Increase the extrusion ratio    If your aperture diameter is correct, but you still see the problem of insufficient output, then you need to adjust the extrusion ratio. This is a very useful setting in CURA, allowing you to easily modify the extrusion volume of the extruder (also known as flow rate). There is a printing material in the basic, which has an extrusion amount setting (%). The default extrusion magnification is 100. If the model is printed out and there is insufficient extrusion, you can appropriately increase the extrusion magnification to make up for it. It can also be set in the adjustment during the printing process. There is a FLOW setting in the adjustment, which is also the setting of the extrusion magnification.

How to solve the problem that 3D printing consumables cannot stick to the platform

Solution:
It is very important that the first layer of printing to stick tightly to the platform. Only in this way can the following layers be built on this plate. If the first layer fails to stick to the platform, it will cause problems in the subsequent layers. There are many ways to deal with the problem of not sticking the first layer: The construction platform is not horizontal    Many printers have several screws or handles to adjust the position of the platform. If your printer has an adjustable platform, and you have encountered the problem that the first layer cannot be implanted, then firstly you need to confirm whether your platform itself is in one level and whether it is placed horizontally. If it is not horizontal, one side of the platform will be closer to the nozzle, and the other side will be too far away. The perfect printing of the first layer requires a horizontally leveled platform. Printing consumables not sticking to the platform Solution: Adjust the distance between the platform and the nozzle by adjusting the four spring nuts under the platform. The proper distance is that the nozzle just touches the platform. Turn the nozzle counterclockwise away from the platform; and turn the nozzle clockwise to get closer to the platform. Nozzle distance from platform too far Solution: After the platform has been leveled, you still need to determine whether the starting position of the nozzle and the distance from the platform are appropriate. You need to position the nozzle to a suitable position from the platform, not close or far away. To stick the filament to the platform slightly to get enough adhesion.

How to solve the problem that the consumables cannot be extruded after the ANET 3D printer starts printing?

Solution:
For newbies in 3D printing, this is a common problem. But, fortunately, this problem is relatively easy to solve. The extruder does not extrude consumables, there may be 4 possibilities. We will explain each situation one by one, and introduce how to set up to solve the problem. After machine started, the filament is not extruded ① The loading consumables are not filled in place before printing starts Before printing, because the consumables were not loaded in place when loading the consumables, no consumables came out from the nozzles. In this case, stop printing and then reload the consumables (see the machine instructions for details on how to load consumables). If the consumables are loaded successfully, there will be consumables flowing out of the nozzle. After machine started, the filament is not extruded ② When printing starts, there are no consumables in the nozzle A common problem: when the extruder is in a heated and static state, the melted consumables in the nozzle continue to flow out due to the law of gravity, causing the nozzle to be empty. This kind of static sag problem may occur in the pre-printing stage, when your nozzle is heated, or it may occur when the extruder is slowly cooling down after printing. If your nozzle has some consumables flowing out of it due to sag, you may need to wait a little longer for the consumables to start squeezing out of the nozzle when printing next time. To solve this problem, you need to make sure that the consumables have filled the nozzle. The usual way to solve this problem is to use something called "skirt" in the slicing software. The skirt is a line around the model, and the nozzle is filled with consumables before the model is officially printed. If you need more "skirts", you can set the number of turns to increase the skirts in the "Expert Settings" tab of the slicing software. ③ The nozzle is too close to the platform If the nozzle is too close to the platform, the platform will block the nozzle during printing, causing the consumables to not be smoothly extruded from the nozzle. Specific performance: There is no consumable sticking on the platform or the masking tape is scratched by the nozzle, the extrusion gear rebounds and the consumable cannot be fed. as follows After printing, the filament is not extruded The method of judgment is as follows: First, when printing the first layer, visually check whether the nozzle and the platform are in a compressed state; second, increase the temperature of the printer nozzle to 240 ℃, separate the nozzle and the platform a certain distance, and then manually feed the material Check whether the consumables flow out smoothly at the nozzle. If the consumables flow out smoothly, the nozzle is not blocked. After re-commissioning the machine, it can be used normally. Solution: re-adjust the printer platform; see the printer leveling video for the specific leveling method ④ Nuzzle blocks If none of the above suggestions solve the problem, then the printer may be blocked. After the printer is blocked, although the extruder is normally rotating and feeding, the consumables cannot flow out from the nozzle, which causes a failed printing. Printer plugging is an unavoidable problem for FDM printers. If this problem occurs, we need to clean it up manually. The situation of plugging is as follows: the printer consumables are made of many materials, which accumulate in the nozzle area and eventually block the nozzles; or the printer is used in a dusty environment, and dust in the air will adhere to the consumables, which will follow the consumables as the printer entering the nozzle, the ash layer accumulates and forms a plug; the other is that the heat dissipation of the extruder is not enough, and the consumables begin to heat and expand outside the expected melting area, and the consumables are deformed, causing the inner walls of the guide tube to stick to each other, resulting in extrusion. The machine cannot push the consumables smoothly. Specific performance: The printer’s extrusion gear retreats and no consumables flow out from the nozzle.   Solution: clean the nozzle.

Firmware & Mainboard of Anet ET4, ET4+ and ET4 Pro

Could the motherboard of ET4 be upgraded to ET4 Pro’s? Does the TMC2208 version of motherboard you’d like to order compatible for your ET4? Recently it seems to be a big concern among some users.
Today we are going to give a clear answer but before that let’s figure out how much do you know about ET4 & ET4 Pro, at the most superficial level.

1. The Differences among ET4, ET4+ and ET4 Pro
Around the beginning of Feb 2020, we had an upgrade on Anet ET4 on its leveling sensor. But it’s not our task in this article to tell how the new and old ET4 differ in their functions. We just pose it to tell you what the differences in their appearance for avoiding the happening of wrong update when someone doesn’t see clearly what model their printer belongs to.

1> Their Nameplates and Colors.
“ET4+” is just a habitual call to identify the new ET4. In fact, ET4 and ET4+ have the same name “ET4” on the nameplate pasted on the left side of their pedestal and the same black + red color. 
ET4 Pro is named as, of course, “ET4 Pro” with full black color.

2> The Leveling Sensors
ET4’s leveling sensor is a film strip while ET4+ and ET4 Pro have the same sensor build-in automatic bed leveling sensor.

leveling sensor is a filmy strip

Film strip leveling sensor on ET4

build-in leveling sensor of et4 pro

Build-in leveling sensor on ET4+ and ET4 Pro

3> The Firmware Info
They all have their own name displayed on their firmware info.

Firmware info of ET4

Firmware V1.1.5 of ET4

Firmware of ET4+

Firmware V1.0.0 of ET4+

Firmware of ET4 Pro

Firmware V1.0.2 of ET4 Pro

2. The Matters of the Commutative Motherboard Upgrade between Any Two Models of ET4 series
So when you read here, we must assume that you will never mistake any model of ET4 that’s already been released. Before you update the firmware of your ET series printers or plan to order a TMC2208 silence mainboard for your ET4 or ET4+, please note that:
· The firmware/mainboard of ET4 cannot be upgraded to ET4 Pro, and vice versa. 
· The firmware/motherboard of ET4+ cannot be upgraded to any model of ET4, vice versa.

· Please confirm the TMC2208 step driver silent mainboard you want to order has the firmware consistent with your printer. 

If you didn’t upgrade your printer according to these requests, your printer would exactly brick.

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